Organic Skincare
this article appeared in Grove magazine october 2004
The boom in the organic food industry is witness to our increasing concern about what we eat. Less known is the fact that the skin absorbs at least 60% of everything we put on it, thus many of the ingredients of the skin care products we use are delivered direct to the body, via the blood stream. So when we are taking care to eat organic, it makes little sense to slather our faces and bodies with chemicals that can block pores, cause allergies and – in the worst case scenario – be linked with cancer.
Reports linking parabens in deodorants with breast tumours have turned many to organic and ‘clean’ products. The Soil Association’s standards for health and beautycare products were launched in 2002 after three years of development and, like its standards for organic food, allow a very limited list of additives and preservatives, with minimum processing. No petro-chemicals or GM ingredients are allowed and products must contain a minimum of 70% organic ingredients. Other organisations such as Ecocert in France, Demeter (which sets standards for biodymanic farming) and The Organic Food Federation also certify products.
The first skincare range to be certified under the SA’s standards were Neal’s Yard Remedies which has been making its distinctive blue-bottled range of skin and haircare products since 1982. For winter NYR has released a Rose and Mallow Moisturiser, a soothing nourisher for winter skin (Neal’s Yard Remedies, 9 Elgin Crescent, W11; 020 7727 3998, for info call 020 7627 1949 or mail order on 0845 262 3145; www.nealsyardremedies.co.uk).
Swiss brand Weleda (certified organic) has produced medicinal preparations and homeopathy since the 1920s. It also has a large range of acclaimed skin and body products. If you are looking for a natural deodorant without parabens or aluminium salts, then choose the Citrus or Sage Deodorant from Weleda (available in most health shops, selected Sainsbury’s, or call 0115 944 8222; www.weleda.com).
Italian doctor Mariano Spiezia switched to practising holistic medicine and moved to Conrwall with his family, from where they produce Spiezia, the only 100% organic range with products for men, women and babies (certified by SA). The limited shelf-life this entails is worth it for the excellence of the products – try the powerful cleansing cream (mail order: 01326 231600, www.spieziaorganics.com).
Plant medicine enthusiast Ruby Cook’s south-London based line, Verde, is organic though not as yet certified. Skincare and bath products are wonderful and their Organic Lavender Water is simply the best I have come across (Call 020 7720 1100; www.verde.co.uk).
Green People (certified organic by SA) is a British company that was started by a mother treating her daughter’s allergies. It includes baby and household lines as well as the usual skin, hair and body products. The Soothing Body Butter is fantastic for dry winter skin (info 0870 240 1444; www.greenpeople.co.uk).
Australian brand Jurlique, is run by Dr Jurgen Klein, a biochemist and a naturopath and his wife Ulrike, a botanist and horticulturist, who grow the herbal ingredients on a farm in South Australia. The products are organic (though not certified) and include make up as well as a huge range of skin, body hair and baby products (0870 770 0980; www.jurlique.com.au).
No article on this topic would be complete without cult brand, Dr Hauschka. The German range is biodynamic, growing all its plants in harmony with nature’s rhythms, picking only before dawn to maximise the life force, etc… All this talk aside, the organic products (certified) are terrific, really good enough to eat. The best way to introduce yourself to the range is by picking up a Daily Body Care and Daily Face Care Kit. There is also a nice line of make up (call 01386 792 622; www.drhauschka.co.uk).
MOP Modern Organic Products’s C-System range of hair care products was created to bring life back to colour-treated hair – the high Vitamin C content feeds hair while protecting it against damaging effects of the environment – but it benefits all hair types. The MOP range is certified by Organic Crop Improvement Association – try the hydrating shampoo and conditioner (available at selected stores and salons, call 01282 613 413).
Horst Rechelbacher created a tiny brand called Aveda with a clove shampoo inspired by Ayurvedic medicine in the 1970s. It is now a giant owned by Estee Lauder, and producing skin and body care products as well as the wonderful hair range. Organic and sustainable ingredients are used where possible though Aveda is not certified. My personal favourite is the super-hydrating Sap Moss Shampoo and Conditioner (Martyn Gayle Aveda Lifestyle Salon, 60-62 Westbourne Grove, W2, tel: 020 7792 5656; for info call 01730 232380; www.aveda.com).
The list above is by no means exhaustive and space does not allow a mention of the many wonderful ‘clean’ products available, such as REN, Korres, Burt’s Bees and Liz Earle… I could go on. But with growing awareness from consumers and those in the industry who wish to produce natural products that are in harmony with the earth and our bodies, this is not a topic that is about to go away.
A list of companies licensed with the Soil Association is available from www.soilassociation.org/healthandbeauty or 0117 929 0661.
© Kamin Mohammadi 2004